The Griddled History of the Crumpet

That spongy, hole-y griddle cake the British so love with afternoon tea, began as a spoonful of batter cooked on a hot stone until its edges curled up, giving our language the word crump (crooked) and later crumple (crush or wrinkled). Etymologists give credit to a Yorkshire man, John Wycliffe, who created this word, crumpet, while translating the Old Testament from Latin to English in 1382. (Legend says the original Latin word was for a hard loaf cake.)

Further delving points to the Celts co-opting the Breton flat pancake called krampoez and to the Welch pancake called crempog. To further confuse, the folks in the English Midlands still call crumpets pikelets, a variation of the Welsh culinary effort, a free-form pancake, sans crumpet ring made from a thinner batter. The Welsh phrase? Bara pyglyd. Pyglyd/pikelet, crempog, krampoez, whatever you call a crumpet, they’re delish.

It took centuries before this ubiquitous flatcake was written down in a recipe, and even longer for the original ingredient, buckwheat flour, to evolve to today’s more traditional white flour. The shape was standardized during the Victorian era when the crumpet ring was designed, contributing to consistency both in shape and size and, enabling the crumpet to rise elegantly and evenly.

Today’s spongy cakes, with their ancient holey surface, are cooked only on one side (hence the holes) and are more like a griddle cake.

British chefs from Mrs. Beeton to Elizabeth David and Delia Smith waffle on whether to add eggs, cut them or roll them out, but we think the following recipe should sate anyone’s appetite.

But, enough talk, let’s make some crumpets.

They’re easy to cook for breakfast or afternoon tea, and their crispy/chewy/spongy combination has a pleasant yeasty flavor that goes beautifully with such classic black teas like Adagio’s triumvirate of breakfast blends: Irish Breakfast, Scottish Breakfast, and English Breakfast. Other options are Earl Greys like Earl Grey Bravo or Earl Grey Moonlight.

CLASSIC ENGLISH CRUMPET RECIPE

If you don’t have crumpet rings, make them free form and call them pikelets!

INGREDIENTS

1 ½ c water, lukewarm

1 cup milk, lukewarm

2T butter, melted

3 ½ cups unbleached, all-purpose flour

2 ½ t instant yeast

1 t baking powder

1 ¼ t salt

DIRECTIONS

Spoon flour into a measuring cup and smooth off any excess. Put into a medium-size bowl and continue to add enough flour to make 3 ½ cups. Mix together all the other ingredients, beating vigorously for two minutes by hand or using an electric mixer.

When thoroughly combined, allow the batter to rest in the bowl, at room temperature, covered with a linen or cotton towel, until it expands and becomes bubbly.

NOTE: Rising time of an hour for the batter to rise is typical and gives a lighter crumpet; 30 minutes will result in a denser version. The holes develop during this fermentation process when the batter is made and proofed. Heating increases the size of the holes and offers the delight of absorbing jam and butter that, if you’re not quick, may dribble down your chin. (That’s why napkins were invented!)

To cook …

Preheat a griddle to 325°F. or use a large shallow pan heated to medium-low. Lightly grease your pan or griddle then place well-greased crumpet rings into the pan or griddle. Fill each ring with batter. For best results, use a ¼ cup measure for each ring.

Cook for about 4 minutes. To remove the rings, use a pair of tongs then continue cooking the crumpets for 10 minutes on the first side, until tops show small bubbles/holes and the bottoms are light-golden brown.

Using tongs, turn the crumpets over, and cook for an additional 5 minutes, if desired; this insures that they are fully cooked inside.

A spatula will easily help you remove the crumpets from the pan (tons can tear them.) Place them on a warmed platter. Repeat until all the batter is used up. Do serve hot from the griddle with unsalted butter, your favorite marmalade or jam or make them the foundation of a mini meal with a topping of your choice from ham and cheese, crispy bacon and an egg over easy or sautéed mushrooms and onions.

For absolute decadence spread the crumpet with butter then drizzle with Adagio Bee's Orange Blossom Honey. Yum!

They keep well for several days (if they last that long!) Allow to cool completely; wrap tightly in plastic, and store on the counter. To serve, reheat in a toaster on the lightest setting.

American-style English Muffins

There was indeed a Mr. Thomas who first introduced the American version of the crumpet and Thomas English Muffins are still sold today. Samuel Bath Thomas immigrated to New York from Plymouth England in 1874 and opened his own bakery in 1880, introducing a “toaster crumpet”. His version is flatter, contains no baking powder, and always baked, not griddled, on both sides. They can be opened up with a unique “fork splitting” to expose the holes inside, rather than on top. Its taste and texture are more like bread than a true crumpet which is spongier and lighter.