Teahouse Review: Toraya

THIS TEAROOM IS NOW CLOSED

On a side street not too far from The Whitney Museum and Central Park stands a little bit of Japan in the heart of New York City. Toraya restaurant and tearoom, located on 71st street between Park and Madison, is so much more than just a teahouse, it's a lesson in Japanese culture. Although it does not feel like a traditional Japanese teahouse, in a space that is quite more modern, bright and linear, the friendly service and selection of this Chashitsu immediately render you comfortable and relaxed. But what makes this little find stand out is a traditional Japanese confection known as Wagashi.

I chose my tea first. As their selections are varied, I knew I needed help. The waitress was extremely knowledgeable, not only giving me an overview of the teas available but the flavors I can expect from each one. Presented in it's own clay pot, the Sencha green tea I decide on was fresh and delicate. At this point I fully trusted my waitress so I went for the Genmai Cha, a combination of green tea leaves and popped rice and corn. Again, the clean smooth taste of the tea impressed me.

The tearoom also boasts a lunch menu, but it is limited. Comprised of soups, rice dishes and sandwiches, the menu is complemented with desserts such as green tea ice cream or mouse. I had the Mochi Salad, an interesting mix of fried rice cakes, mushrooms and potatoes. Although there might not be a sizeable selection, the elegant choices are quite tasty.

Then it came time for my Wagashi experience. Wagashi is a dessert designed to appeal to several senses. Taste, of course, but also smell, sight, texture and even sound, as the names of these confections are quite lyrical themselves. The main ingredients are usually a sweet paste of red of white beans that are sculpted into endless shapes and colors. Confectioners spend much time perfecting the art of creating Wagashi; and these delicious treats are art in every sense of the word. My Wagashi, in the shape of cherry blossoms, was very pleasant, rather sweet, light with a smooth texture. I had to have more. As Toraya has a shop in front of the teahouse, I knew I could take a little bit of Japan back home with me.

With shop locations in Tokyo and Paris and another teahouse in Kyoto, Toraya is internationally known for their Wagashi. The New York teahouse is open Monday through Saturday, but its best to arrive early. Seating is limited and the last order of the day is taken at 6:30 pm.

Toraya is a calming experience. The space, the ambiance and the people are all there to make sure that all your senses are taken care of... including sight and sound, but notably smell and taste.