511-A West 22nd Street
New York, NY 10011
(212) 691-2258
www.wildlilytearoom.com
Tue-Sun 11am-10pm, closed Mon
Hidden under the elevated among buildings whose only sign of business is a
brass placard, lives the Wild Lily Tea Room, an oasis of peace and serenity.
Designed by David Hu, the interior of the small space (seats at most 28) is
a mix of angles and materials that sets off the spare polished wood tables and
pillows or Western-height square stools. The circular pool with its fish
also sets the mood for a refreshing stop for tea and relaxation.
In business since September 1998, this neighborhood haunt is almost
invisible from the street, but is an obvious local favorite judging from the short
line on a random afternoon. Once inside, the menus offer a confined but diverse
range of mostly Asian foods but includes also the traditional scones and tea
sandwiches. The saying across the top of the handmade paper read "We only
create emotional food with a lot of care" and what I tried reflected that
attention to detail. The baked-that-day English raisin and apricot scones
had been cut into flower shapes, were hot and tasty, and (best of all) were
served with real Devon clotted cream and the freshest of berry jams for only
$5.75. A salad called ginger poached chicken with curry for $8.50 arrived
as a wide strip of finely shredded tender chicken swathed with curry sauce on
top of a bed of fresh greens with sweet dressing with fresh sourdough bread
on the side.
The serving style was diverse according to the type of food selected. My
Darjeeling was served in an English-style teacup while other Chinese Oolong teas
were served in the more appropriate handleless cups. Food was carefully set
out on oblong platters. The service was complemented by the display for
sale of a limited number of artisan quality tea cups and pots. I simply couldn't
resist buying a small cup to nestle in my hands once home with my favorite
jasmine tea.
On another day I might have had one of their soups, their "delights" or the
afternoon tea for $21.50 per person. The full tea is a delightful mix of
flavors, consisting of assorted tea sandwiches (on that day, smoked fish
pate, ginger poached chicken with curry, butternut squash cream with toasted
almond slices, smoked Norwegian salmon with basil cream, and English
cucumber with rice vinegar honey sauce), those wonderful scones, dark chocolate
velvet cake, handmade cookies, and a tea selected among Passion Green, Verbena
Leaves, Jade Green Oolong, or Lavender Lace. Entries are also available.
But how about the tea? The approximately 40 teas are served for $4 to $8 a
serving or are sold from the elegant black containers behind the register.
Varieties range from Japanese sencha and matcha to a selection of Chinese,
herbal, traditional and simply fun blends. Served either in glass teapots
with infusers removed just before serving for traditional teas or other
method as appropriate to the type, the tea I tried was served properly and
delicious.
The Wild Lily is more than just a tea room, frequently offering musical
entertainment ranging from classical to Asian to jazz. Reservations for
those occasions are essential.
If seeking a moment of peace and sustenance, finding the Wild Lily will be
worth your while.
